The Joys of the Field Blend, 2008

   100 year old vine Zinfandel at Lorenzo’s in Dry Creek ValleyBedrock Zinfandel came in at 32.8 brix.  Yes, that is like 19-20% potential alcohol from a vineyard on the valley floor of Sonoma Valley– we are not talking about a natural climatic furnace here.  However, the combination of meager set in the spring and two weeks of intense heat made for incredibly fast ripening– again, yield is not necessarily linked to quality.  Though the resulting wine, at 15.8% alcohol dry after a hefty addition of Jesus Units, is passable Zin, in no year am I happier for all the other goodies going into the Bedrock Heirloom Wine.  While the Zin got real ripe, real fast, the 120 year old Carignane was unperturbed and came in a week later at a far more reasonable 26.  On the same day I harvested Syrah and Barbera, which were tasting great, and brought them in together.  In the three ton open-top I cofermented one ton each of Barbera, Syrah, and the Carignane, and in a separate open-top I fermented a ton of the Carignane on its own.  The cofermentation, which fermented dry to 15.3% is inky-purple in color, has bright acidity, rich fruit, and not a trace of over-ripeness.  The Carignane has spicy fruit and again, lacks any trace of over-ripeness that defined the Zin.  While the Zin has some delicious spice and fruit components, it is the other varietals that will allow the 2008 to retain poise, balance, and richness, and flirt with the higher angels of excellent wine.   In similar fashion, I picked the Zin, Carignane, and Petite Sirah from Lorenzo’s all on the same day and cofermented them.  The result is an inky black, powerful, wine.  Since I cofermented I did not have to water back, as the Pets was at 24.5 and the Carignane at 25.  The acidity has been brightened and the tannin and color enriched due to the interworkings of the other heirloom varietals interplaying with the strong core of spicy Zin fruit.  The goal of field blends, as envisioned by our forefathers, was to make a balanced wine in the vineyards, and this year is a clear example of that foresight truly working.