2008 Syrah Re-cap

Typically lightly cropped Syrah on the 2000′ feet high, dry-farmed, terraced 40 degree slopes of Bald Mountain Vineyard in the Mount Veeder appellation.

Going into the second week of September the 2008 vintage looked like a disaster– perhaps no more so than for Syrah.  The two straight weeks of unrelenting heat, with warm nights and no coastal fog, was forcing sugars to skyrocket while flavors remained retarded and seeds stayed green.  At one point a few vineyards looked so dessicated from water loss that it looked like nothing short of a miracle could bring them back.  On the morning of Sept. 10 we received that blessed cool touch to the forehead and all the winemakers on the north coast started speaking in tongues….

Heavy fog, along with a long cool spell, allowed canopies to rebound and grapes to rehydrate.  In some spots we saw brix drop up to three points between the 8th and 13th.  This evening of the weather allowed us to hang the grapes for long enough that in some spots we picked on the same day as 2007, and in most cases with equivalent if not better quality.

Going into the harvest a few principles had calcified in my head regarding Syrah.  First, I think Syrah benefits from a higher percentage of whole clusters than I had been comfortable using in 2007– the aromatics, the spice, the elegance, and even the suppleness can be increased.  Second, the use of whole clusters, and the balancing act of not breaking down too many hard stem tannins, forced me to change my approach to cap management focusing more on gentle pumpovers rather than punchdowns.  Third, the interplay between whole clusters, new oak, and vineyard site, needed to be explored more.  In 2007 I more or less took the Ravenswood approach to the world– take different sites, treat them exactly the same, and see the differences.  Though the wines in 2007 are very good, I think that different sites should be treated differently– a vinous move towards states rights rather than Federalism (to place it into the politically charged context of these weeks).

Thus, I got to make some really fascinating Syrah this year. Some were nearly completely whole-cluster, others were completely destemmed, some are seeing no new oak, and some are seeing 100% new oak.  However, like all Bedrock Wine Co. efforts, all wines were fermented with native yeasts, see minimal if any acidification (I have only added TA to one wine this year), are not inoculated for mL, and in most cases have been manually basket-pressed.  So far, I am incredibly pleased with the results.  In general, the natural acidities are excellent and the alcohols low– making for wines with plently of sap, verve, and excellent aromatic complexity.

Below I have outlined the procedures taken for each of the Syrah vineyards received in 2008, with the tentative bottling it will go into.

Hudson Vineyard, Napa Carneros:  1 ton done 75% whole cluster and placed in a one year old 600L demi-muid (aka, big, big barrel); 1 ton completely destemmed and fermented with 5% Viognier and placed in 100% new puncheons and barrels; 1 ton 10% whole cluster and fermented in completely new puncheons and barrels and aged in new puncheons and barrels. (ideally three separate bottlings but perhaps one combined cuvee)

Wildcat Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma Coast: 1 ton destemmed and placed in new puncheon, 3/4 ton done 33% whole cluster placed in 50% new wood, 3/4 ton done with 75% whole cluster and placed in neutral barrels. Vineyard Designate.

Bald Mountain Syrah, Mount Veeder: 2 tons fermented with 25% whole clusters, placed in 40% new wood (puncheon and barrels).  Vineyard Designate.

Old Lakeville Vineyard, Sonoma Coast: Clones 877 and Noir fermented with 50% whole clusters, while the Estrella was completely destemmed.  Placed in 33% new wood. Vineyard Designate.

Kick Ranch Syrah, Sonoma County: Clone 470 fermented with 15% Viognier, clones 383 and 877 completely destemmed.  This is fermenting now and will be placed in 50% new wood. Vineyard Designate.

Glenlyon Vineyard, Sonoma Valley: Fermented with 50% whole clusters and placed in 2 year old barrels. Vineyard Designate?)

Lauterbach Hill, Russian River Valley: Fermented with 40% whole clusters and placed in 40% new wood. (Vineyard Designate?)

Annendale Vineyard, Sonoma Valley: Destined for Hookers Shebang, this lovely site is completely destemmed and is just starting to ferment.

Harwood Syrah, Sonoma Valley: Completely destemmed and destined for Hooker’s Shebang.

Obviously, retooling will take place throughout the year.  If wines seem to need less or more new wood than the proper changes will be made.

All in all, I am quite pleased with the sites and quality of the wine.  More than any other recent year I feel that 2008 will be a site driven year throughout much of California.  It is a testament to the terroirs and their farmers that such good fruit came out of such a trying year.