Oak, Version 2008

The Salle de Chauffe at Tonnellerie Meyrieux in Burgundy.

It seems a bit unfair that oak has to be ordered so early in the spring. The wines from the previous vintage are only showing a small segment of the flavor that will eventually be gleaned from the new barrels. As such, coming to a conclusion regarding barrel preference, when one only has one vintage of wine in barrel like me, is difficult. Alas, the demand for some barrels is such that orders must be made prior to April or a winery can kiss the opportunity to use them good-bye. This is the case with Darnajou, Marcel Cadet, and a few others.

The current price of French and European oak is obscene. The combination of high global demand, stagnant supply, and a dollar limper than W’s moral-code, makes the best French oak barrels from top coopers around $1200 per barrel. Next time one shells $80 for 100% new oak aged Cabernet Sauvignon remember this.

There are a couple of ways to cope with the high prices for oak– none of which are attractive to me. One option is to opt for less expensive American oak. As readers of this blog might have already gleaned, I hate American oak. The other option is to use barrel alternatives made from French oak such as staves or chips. Though the quality of barrel alternatives has gotten much better in recent years, and almost every major cooper has their own range of products, they still do not impart the subtlety and contours found in good French oak barrels.

Thus, in Bedrock Wine Company’s pursuit of making good swill, the cost of oak must be eaten like the communal wafer. It is the host from which the best wine emanates.

Like last year, the number of cooper’s used is long. There are different philosophies regarding cooper. Some winemakers, such as Will Bucklin use only one cooper and experiment broadly within the range of barrels offered. This is valid, and perhaps I would do this if I was not so fascinated with diversity. Also, I feel like having many coopers is akin to providing yourself with insurance. Coopers, like wineries, suffer from vintage to vintage variation– staves used to make barrels are aged outside and are exposed to the fickles of mother natures’ moods just like grapes are. Two stave yards aging wood from the same forest, or even the same tree, may have a drastically different final product depending on where they are. The cold, coastal wet of the Aquitaine and Charentais in France’s southwest is climatically quite different from the continental cold and wet of Beaune. As much as coopers would like us to believe it, no two barrels are exactly alike from year-t0-year or forest-to-forest.

This year’s barrels can be found below according to wine. This is by no means set in stone. If a wine seems like it needs more or less wood than adjustments will be made accordingly.

Bedrock Heirloom Wine, 50% new oak

Nadalie Nevers M+ TH, Boutes Nevers M+ TH, Gillet Nevers M+ TH, Rousseau “Allegro”

Lorenzo’s Heirloom Wine, 50% new oak

Nadalie Nevers M+ TH, Boutes Grand Reserve

Rebecca’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, 75% new oak

Gillet Vosges M+ TH, Dargaud et Jaegle Bertranges M+, Mercurey “Grand Cru” 36 month

Kick Ranch Syrah, 50% new

Meyrieux “Syrah,” Rousseau Bertranges M+ TH, Ermitage Bertranges M+ TH

Old Lakeville Syrah, 66% new

Meyrieux “Syrah,” Rousseau Bertranges M+ TH, Ermitages Bert. M+ TH, Seguin-Moreau Muid D’oc

Wildcat Mountain Syrah, 50% new

Meyrieux “Syrah” 36 months, Ermitage Allier-Jupilles Blend M+