The Search for Vineyards

Above: Cabernet vine planted in the Medocaine gravels of Ch. Latour.  Orgasmically perfect vineyard. 

The choice of vineyards, particularly for a small winery, is of essential importance. At the petite size of Bedrock Wine Co. there is no place to put vineyards that do not work out. One can try to sell it off as bulk, but given the expense of fruit from potential sites and things such as oak inputs (french oak is $1000 a barrel right now), it is hard to sell off 200 gallons of juice at $20 a gallon. Larger wineries just do not need it. The second option, which is worse, is to try and sell a wine that I am not completely happy with. I am not working for a company like Constellation for a reason– I need to be sure that I am unequivocally satisfied with my wines. This means that I am looking for a number of really important factors when it comes to vineyard selection. Though this by no means guarantees an interesting and expressive wine it certainly helps refine the process,

1. Site and varietal selection. When I am looking for grapes I am as interested in the site as the varietal, much less clone, I am looking for. In California, as in much of the world, ideal vineyards sites are low to moderate in vigor with well-drained soils. Since much of California is geologically on the young side the soils tend to be more acid than alkaline– an important factor in choosing the proper rootstock for a site. That said, it is also a matter of matching the proper varietal and clone to a particular soil. Syrah tends to be much higher vigor than, let’s say, Pinot Noir. Thus, in a vineyard that featured both varieties, the Syrah would be planted on the lowest vigor soil while the Pinot would be planted in slightly richer soil. The idea is to balance the vigor of green growth and the amount of crop with the site. This is the reason why I get so frustrated with the obsession with low crop levels– as low crops do not necessarily achieve balance of fruit, tannin, and acid. In fact, excessively low crop levels cause as much damage as crop levels that are too high to achieve proper vine balance. This is obviously a rough science and many other factors come into play. Such as…

2. Vine Age. Once the proper site has been found there are other factors that are important. For varieties such as Zinfandel it take an incredibly special site to produce wines of profundity from vines that are not devigorated by age– I think of Cooke Vineyard, Arrowhead Mtn. Vineyard, and York Creek Vineyard. In even such golden spots for Zinfandel such as the Dry Creek bench the difference that vine age makes is huge. For more recently planted varieties such as Syrah and Pinot Noir vine age is not really a factor– most of the best clones in the best sites have been planted in the last 5-8 years– so we do not really get a choice as to what it ideal. Those vineyards that have some age are held so tightly by producers that there is just no way of getting a crack at fruit– think Hirsch Vineyard on the coast, Rochioli, Swan, etc.

3 . Trellising and Vine Density. The trellis is essentially a mechanism by which to support the vine (keep it from falling over), and to create proper canopy and fruit balance. A good trellis spreads out the canes and canopy enough to create good air-circulation (important in preventing fungal disease), keep fruit from sitting on top of itself (for the same reason), while effectively letting in the right amount of sunshine for photosynthesis and grape ripening whilst preventing sunburn. Typically, younger vineyards of quality are trellised and pruned for single or double cordon vertical shoot positioned or cane-pruned. That said, relics of the high vigor rootstock (AXR)/ Dr. Smart era still exist and one can see Geneva Double Curtain, Lyre, TK2T, and other pruning styles employed. Vine density is another tool by which to control vigor– this time via competition for water and nutrient resources. The greater the vine density the more vines will struggle against each other to compete for resources– thus lowering vigor. The less the vines compete the fatter they get (hear an echo of Adam Smith here?). Again, I am looking for proper vine balance. In some cases a number of combinations of rootstock, variety, clone, trellising, and vine density could work depending on philosophy. In others, almost none will.

4. Fertilization, Cover-Cropping, etc. I would argue that the main difference between sustainable or organic vineyards and others is the reliance on chemical fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers are often like McDonald’s for the vine– providing a sudden rush without much effort expended on the vines part. When treated with fertigation vines have a tendency to create root balls towards the surface of the soil where they wait, like chicks in a nest, for mother-bird to drop some food into their mouths. Now, farming like this has definite benefits. It is easier to establish a vineyard more quickly (and vineyards are fucking expensive), to regulate vigor via timed nutrient adds, and to guard against drought and weather variation in the short-term with this method. That said, a healthy and sustainable vineyard is one that can survive on its own. This means less reliance on chemical fertilizer additions or fertigations and greater reliance on other means by which to achieve proper vine and soil balance, namely cover crops. Cover crops are a remarkable tool. Crops based on nitrogen rich fava beans, vetch, and peas, when grown and then tilled into the soil both increase the soil tilth and friability (i.e. the texture) and vitamin and mineral content in the ground. Thus, the vine spreads its roots and goes looking for other nutrients. Different cover crops can be used to devigorate sections of vineyard that have too much nutrient, while other crops, planted on a semi-permanent basis, are an invaluable way to prevent erosion and run-off.

5. Vineyard Management and Ownership. Perhaps most essential, I have seen some excellent vineyards twindle into mediocrity in my time due to faulty management and ownership. I have also seen some vineyards be over-achievers due to excellent management and oversight. You essentially want someone you can work with and who will take input into certain decisions regarding the grapes you are buying. Things such as irrigation techniques, leaf-pulling, crop-thinning, etc. are all decisions that should be made in concert between the vineyard owner/manager and the winemaker.

6. Previous successes. Ain’t no way around the fact that some vineyards are just flat out excellent and are brands unto themselves. Think Hudson, Hyde, Bien Nacido, anything Gary Pisoni has done, Hirsch, etc. This is not the most important thing, as many potentially great and exciting vineyards have recently been put in and do not have the star name, but it certainly helps me sleep better at night knowing that a vineyard is not completely untested.

SO. If I find a vineyard that seems to satisfy all of my requirements, then I go after it. Luckily, I also farm a lot of my fruit as well– Bedrock and Abbastanza– so I have complete control over many of the decisions there. That said, if I had a dream list of vineyards I could get fruit from it would be this:

Syrah:

Wildcat Mountain Vineyard, Sonoma Coast: A beautiful site on the very end of the Sonoma Mountain range overlooking the bay. Cold and foggy and very coastal this vineyard makes wines of great power and finesse.

Paras Vineyards, Mt. Veeder: The backbone of Jade Mountain Winery as well as Paras (made by the lovely Douglas Danielak), this is an older vineyard that has great mountain character.

Timbervine Ranch, Russian River Valley: The wines that Eric Sussman at Radio Coteau and Bayard Fox at Renard have made from this vineyard are excellent. It also has a small amount of Viognier (potential cofermentation, YAY!).

Schaefer-Mountain Terraces Vineyard, Sonoma Valley: Crazy, Crazy, vineyard etched high into the Sonoma side of Mt. Veeder. Ain’t no way that interesting fruit cannot come from the site.

Bald Mountain Vineyard, Mt. Veeder/Sonoma Valley/ Napa: This dry-farmed vineyard lies on the border of the Mt. Veeder and Sonoma Valley borders up near Kistler Vineyard.

Hudson Vineyard, Carneros: Of course.

Pinot Noir:

Griffin’s Lair Vineyard, Sonoma Coast: Located in the Petaluma Gap across from Old Lakeville Vineyard this vineyard is impeccably and organically farmed by Joan Griffin. The Syrah famously goes to Pax, Arnot-Roberts, and Karen Culler, and all of the wines are excellent. I have been beguiled by the efforts of Roessler (unsurprisingly made, atleast initially, by Wells Guthrie) with the Pinot from this vineyard.

Devil’s Gulch Vineyard, Marin County: Yep, Marin County. This vineyard is located close to the Nicasio Reservoir and it is an awesome site. Farmed organically by the tireless Mark Pasternak, this place echoes good vibes. A rather odd effort is made by Sean Thackrey but fruit from this vineyard also goes to Pey-Marin for their excellent bottling.

Zinfandel/ Field Blends

Monte Rosso Vineyard, Sonoma Valley: High up on the Sonoma side of Mt. Veeder this vineyard is deservedly famous for its Old Vine Zinfandel. The best bottlings from Ravenswood and Biale combine power, impeccable structure, and lovely high-tone spice components.

Old Hill Vineyard: The greatest vineyard for a California field blend, bar none.

Todd Vineyard, Geyserville: This excellent hillside vineyard makes opulently forward and delicious wines. Michael Dashe’s is spanking good and Ravenswood’s is not bad.

Teldeschi Vineyard, Dry Creek: By this I mean the portion owned by Caterina and John Teldeschi. It is impeccably farmed and has been for a couple of generations, and lies on the best spot for Zinfandel in Dry Creek. Makes wines of amazing power, spice, and density.

Grandpere Vineyard, Shenendoah Valley: Old, ungrafted and unfortunately dying from phyloxxera right now. Amador Zin’s are not for everyone as they tend to combine lots of spice, super-ripe fruit, and high acidity. This vineyard is such a historical piece, featuring the oldest vines in California, that it would be a thrill to make wine from it.

Pristinely ripe and delicate Pinot Noir from Rebecca’s Vineyard in Russian River Valley. A dream vineyard that I already get to work with!